COLOUR YOUR HAIR
No lady can forget the first time she coloured her hair. While sliding into that salon chair, we experience a lot of emotions like: excitement about finally getting those honey-blonde highlights matched by fear that we may walk out looking worse than before we began. Warm versus cool tones, lowlights versus highlights, or temporary versus permanent—the most crucial part of our first salon appointment comes down to deciding what we want. Therefore, no lady will want to take this decision lightly.
‘Highlights’ is actually a common term that refers to hair that is lighter than its natural colour. ‘Foil highlights, which are also called ‘foiling’ is a colouring process where sheets of foil are used to set apart strands of hair whether thick or thin, depending on preference. Foil highlights are the most classic way of doing highlights, and this method has been used by hairdressers for many years now. This trusted technique is both a Science and an Art – complex, multifaceted, precise and simply stunning.
In foil highlighting process, the strands of hair are covered with a lightener before wrapping them in foil. Foiling is a more controlled process because the foils keep the lightener from getting on the surrounding hair.
Heat is trapped in the wrapped foils, which allows the lightener to lift more effectively, which in turns lightens the hair and gives us precise highlights. Foils are generally placed close to the scalp, lightening the hair from the roots to the ends.
Here are Few Essential Steps to Foil Highlights
Our natural colour can be intensified with foils just one or two tones away from our initial shade. This works well with any natural hair colour and is great if we want to slightly brighten and freshen up our look without a dramatic change. The thickness and placement of the foils can be customised to attain our desired look. We can go from thin fine strands that place gentle accents, to evenly spaced medium sized foils that helps us achieve the classic highlighted look.
Foils are the best bet if we want to go for straight streaks. Foils target the entire hair shaft including the roots. Taking dark hair 4-5 or more shades lighter tends to work best with this technique. Foil highlights have an obvious separation, so any new growth is noticeable.
The number of touch-ups recommended for out desired look depends on several factors: the number of shades used in the foils, our hair texture and amount of greys, the degree of contrast between the foils and our natural colour, the placement of foils, and our attitude towards roots.
Here are few basic steps to foil highlights:
Before we start:
We need to pre-cut and fold the aluminium foils, we can use 4×5 pieces, or larger, depending on the length of the hair.
We must study the haircut and style according to the dimensional effects desired.
The hair must be brushed out and should be completely tangle-free to ensure smooth colour application.
We can also take a Colour Preview Strand Test.
We must not apply mixture if skin is red or irritated or if Preview Strand Test shows any sign of breakage or damage to the hair.
Then we need to plan out where the foil wraps should be placed and comb the hair into sections.
The loose hair should be clipped during the foiling process for more control.
We should mix the highlighting formula in a non-metallic bowl.
We must follow the weaving or slicing method of foil wrapping within the design that we’ve mapped out.
Doing the Wrap
Firstly, the hair should be part dried according to desired effect and foil application should begin in the back-nape section. (This gives us easy rinsing access if these strands lighten before total application is complete.)
We can use the handle of the tail comb to weave through each section and select fine strands of hair. Since every foil wrap becomes a highlight, the more foils we use to wrap the strands, the more highlights we will get.
We’ve to hold woven strands out at a 90-degree angle from the head, then slip comb through the fold in the foil. The centre edge of the foil must be held firmly under the woven strands as close to the base of strands as possible.
The selected strands should be laid in the centre of the foil. The ends of the hair should be held tautly so that they lay flat against the foil. Then the comb should be removed.
The application must begin away from the scalp, towards the tips of hair. We must spread the mixture evenly and thoroughly on each strand. The product should be kept 1-8 inches away from the edge of the foil. Then the bottom edge of foil must be folded to top edge. The foil must not be pressed down where the mixture is on hair. The foil must then be gently folded inwards on both sides about an inch.
If it takes a long time to complete the entire foiling application, and the first section foiled is sufficiently decolonized, then each of the processed foil should be removed by holding a towel under the foils; and the strands should be wet; and the formula should be wiped off the strands.
If we prefer to increase the volume of developer as we proceed through the foiling, we can make a note of the time of when we began. This will help determine the total foil processing time.
Semi-Permanent Hair Colour
If we want to make a subtle change to our hair colour without making a major commitment. Then we should consider a semi-permanent colour instead of traditional permanent hair colour. Since it gradually fades over time. Semi-permanent hair colour is a great way to experiment with a new shade.
Semi-permanent hair colour is a gentle and temporary alternative to permanent dye. Unlike most permanent formulas, semi-permanent hair colour doesn’t contain ammonia or hydrogen peroxide. Without these active ingredients, the hair colour will not penetrate the cuticle and change its structure for long-lasting colour. It doesn’t require any development or pre-mixing, so we can apply it straight to our hair. Semi-permanent hair colour generally lasts through 8-12 shampoos.
Semi-permanent hair pigments only coat the outer hair shaft. This type of colour is also used to blend grey or enhance natural colour, therefor it’s safe for immediate use after a relaxer or perm service. What’s more, semi-permanent hair colouring is simple and can be easily done at home. Also, semi-permanent colour is low maintenance.
Before getting started, we should do a patch test 48 hours prior to each use. This is because hair colour can cause an allergic reaction. Then, we should shampoo and dry hair fully. With the enclosed gloves on, the semi-permanent hair colour should be applied onto desired areas. Depending on the porosity of our hair, the colour will gradually fade after a few shampoos.
We also need to be sure we’re using shampoo and conditioner systems that are formulated for colour-treated hair. This can improve the staying power of the hair pigments in our hair.
Hair glazes and glosses are examples of semi-permanent hair colour. These services majorly boost shine for natural or coloured hair, as well as give vibrancy back to coloured hair in between highlighting appointments. We can use this regularly for shine-boosting or colour-reviving reasons. It adds luster, a deep glow, and delicate shimmering light reflections to our hair. Such colour enhancements sure can brighten our days.
Permanent Hair Colour
Tints: Tinting is temporary. It deposits the colour on top of the hair strands without lifting the original pigment. Since tints do not get absorbed into the hair shaft, the colour molecules eventually wash away with shampooing. A tint colour may be beneficial to those who have damaged, bleached or brittle hair, as the porosity of the strands lets the colour be absorbed and makes it last longer.
Fundamentally, hair tint works by opening the hair’s cuticle which allows the colour or tint into the hair shaft. This is how it replaces the hair’s natural pigment.
Tints usually have a water or alcohol base which is mixed with synthetic dye or colouring agent. Oftentimes, the tint can be in the form of a styling product such as a mousse; this is usually accompanied by other ingredients such as silicone for shine.
A tint requires a re-application every 2-4 weeks to maintain an even coverage. But tints will not be absorbed well by grey hair resulting in an uneven or highlighted look. It can fade over time. Hair tint often lasts about 6 to 8 weeks depending on our hair care routine, gradually it grows out and can leave a growth line over time. The processing time for a hair-tint is about 15-20 minutes.
Semi-Permanent hair colour: If we want to make a delicate change to our hair colour without making a major commitment, then we should consider a semi-permanent colour instead of traditional permanent hair colour. Since it slowly fades over time. Semi-permanent hair colour is a wonderful way to experiment with a new shade.
Semi-permanent hair colour is a mild and short-lived alternative to permanent dye. Unlike most permanent colour formulas, semi-permanent hair colour doesn’t contain ammonia or hydrogen peroxide. Without these active ingredients, the hair colour will not penetrate the hair cuticle and change its structure for long-lasting colour. Since it doesn’t require any pre-mixing, therefore, we can apply it straight to our hair. Semi-permanent hair colour generally lasts through 8-12 shampoos.
The pigments of semi-permanent hair colour coats the only the outer shaft of hair. This type of hair colour blends grey hair or enhances natural hair colour. It is also safe to be used immediately after a perm or relaxer service. In addition, the semi-permanent hair colouring process is simple and can easily be done at home. Semi-permanent colour is low maintenance as well.
Before beginning, we should do a patch test 48 hours prior to each use, because hair colour can cause an allergic reaction. Then, we should shampoo and dry hair thoroughly. With the enclosed gloves on, the semi-permanent hair colour should be applied onto desired areas on our hair. Depending on the porosity of our hair, the colour will gradually fade after a few shampoos’ washes.
We need to be sure we’re using shampoos and conditioners that are formulated for colour-treated hair, this can improve the lastingness of the hair pigments in our hair.
Examples of semi-permanent hair colour includes hair glazes and glosses. These services majorly enhance shine for natural as well as coloured hair, giving vibrancy back to coloured hair in between highlighting appointments. We can use this regularly for shine-boosting or colour-rejuvenating reasons. It adds luster, a deep glow, and subtle shimmering light reflections to our hair. Such colour intensifications sure can brighten our days.
Permanent hair colour: Permanent hair colour is the most popular form of hair colouring.
The permanent hair colour works when ammonia and hydrogen peroxide react together in a chemical reaction called oxidation, which opens the cuticle, interacts with the melanin and keratin (those are chemicals responsible for colour and texture), and changes the structure in order to deposit dye into the hair fibres.
Permanent hair colour can lighten, darken, or change the shade of our hair, cover grey and provide full coverage. It will last between week 6 to 8. It often requires a root touch-up about every 4 weeks because dark roots become more noticeable as the hair grows out. Permanent colour fully covers grey strands.
Unlike temporary hair dye, permanent hair colour grows with our hair, creating an obvious line of differentiation and visible roots, making root touch up a necessary part of our hair colour maintenance routine. However, we won’t have to retouch our roots 4 weeks after the treatment. Most people agree that the lastingness of the colour makes up for the added maintenance. Also, the colour can resist multiple washes.
There are also several things we can do at home to keep our newly-coloured hair in great form, such as using a deep-conditioning hair mask, on a weekly basis or using a shampoo especially for coloured hair, to gently cleanse and prevent colour fading.
Permanent hair colour is a wonderful option to fully conceal grey hair since it’s typically available in a larger variety of shades and will provide longer-lasting results.
Obviously, the overwhelming collection of colour options and different colouring methods is enough to make us nervous, nonetheless, it’s difficult to resist the desire of getting a new hair colour. Therefore, we have put together some of the popular ways of getting a hair colour done; to help everyone choose the most appropriate method for them.
BELLISIMOS + COLOUR
Find your “Vibe” at your Cardiff Salon!